The "Burma Road" Pt. III (Mong La)
We came to a small toll gate on the side of the road. We had already passed a number of others collecting small fees. This one was different. He wanted only Chinese Yuan. A receipt was issued and I paid the equivalent of about $5.00usd, quite expensive for a road toll in Asia. Across this gate was like entering another world. Suddenly there was traffic. I had not seen more than one car for the last 50km. Now there were cars and vans zipping by in both directions. They would sound there horn each time they passed. I learned this was proper "etiquette" on the road and in town. Most of the cars seemed to be white Toyotas and were obviously hired.
We approached Mong La and were shocked by wide tree lined boulevards. I could see multi storied hotels and casinos in the distance. Looked good to me. But as we actually entered town I could see that there were no cars or people around these buildings. There was some traffic. No more than 5 or 6 cars on any road it at any one time it seemed. What's up? OK, first to immigration. We drove around town, still puzzled by all the closed buildings. We stopped at what looked like a very nice luxury hotel and the room rate was 150 Yuan (just under $20 usd). The problem was we had to find immigration and the staff only spoke Chinese. So, on to the next,..............and the next..............and the next! No one it seemed spoke English or Thai. We went from shop to shop, restaurant to restaurant and hotel to hotel. No immigration, no communication.
We came to the Friendship Hotel (above). There we found two young ladies who were Tai Yai, and could speak Thai. Our saviour!. She worked as a maid and her boss said she could take us to immigration if we stayed at the hotel. The hotel was less than desirable but we had a deal. 60 Yuan (about $6.00usd), and off we went to immigration.
The next issue was to find something to eat. Plenty of Chinese restaurants but I am not at all fluent in Chinese foods. Menus did not have pictures and there were no customers to point to and say "I'll have that". We finally found one young boy who understood a few words. He understood noodles and took Thim with him to the kitchen to point what she wanted with them. We were afraid we may get what was proudly displayed outside. Click on photos for a better view!
So What's Going on Here!In the evening we went for a walk and found many shops open selling boutique and name brand clothing, gold shops and telephone shops. All were Chinese operated. We found a night market with food stalls similar to Thailand. He we pointed and chose what we would eat. But where are the Casinos? The are still closed as are the large hotels. We found a row what look like karaoke bars minus the karaoke. Many ladies with "something" to sell. Two discos were open but where are the people? Few cars and fewer customers. Mongla Under Double Heat As we walked back to the hotel we found another Tai Lai women operating a small barbeque stand. She said people use to come but now they don't. The casino's have been closed for a couple years but she doesn't understand why. She says some Thai came before on tours but she has never seen one travel alone and she has never seen a non-asian before. There are some small gambling shops outside of town but she is not sure where. We saw a couple places that looked like car repair facilities but they had probably 20-30 cars each sitting around. She says these are all for sale. She says she doesn't know why people don't come anymore. She sells here bbq until 2 or 3 A.M sometimes to get money. I was fascinated by all this but had no answers. We left the next morning. Answers from the Internet:It seems things changed so fast, and continue to do so that even the internet cannot keep up. Mong La was one of the largest poppy growing/heroin producing areas in the world. Run by a druglord called Lin Mingxian. Lin had been a field commander in the Communist Party of Burma, or CPB, a formidable insurgent group that once occupied a large swath of northeastern Shan state. When the CPB collapsed in 1989, Lin led a breakaway faction of over 3,500 soldiers, taking control of an opium-rich wilderness bordering China, Laos and Thailand. Rather than take on Lin, the Burmese government gave him autonomous control of the Shan Special Area 4 in exchange for cease fire agreements. Later Lin, who still lives in a large guarded complex that one passes entering town, worked deals with the Chinese. Mong La was transformed into a mega palace for every possible vice. Huge gambling casinos were built financed by Chinese from Hong Kong and other major centers. Sex shows, transvestites, and illicit goods were everywhere. Burmese Daze-Time Magazine Within the last 5 years this activity continued drawing thousands of wealthy Chinese and Thai tourists. That is until the Chinese government officials and families began loosing millions of Yuan in the casinos. The Chinese moved in soldiers and closed their borders. Travel to Mong La was forbidden. Mong La economy collapsed to what I saw today. Recent "Online" gambling sites brag of Lin's success at countering this by establishing "online" internet gambling sites broadcast live over the internet from Mong La. As I saw no sign of anything resembling "success" going on, further digging found that the Chinese have recently cut the internet connections and have threatened to shut off electricity to the area which apparently flows from China. Now people are deep into the trade of exotic wild animals. This is a major concern to world organizations and is now under attack by many governments. Endangered Species: Poppies to Songbirds Many are afraid the area will return to it's illicit drug trade and it seems the people are left in a lose/lose situation. Do a google search and you will be amazed at the rapid rise and decline in the articles of the area published over just the last 5 years. Check the date of what you reading, they describe everything from a war lord's area under siege, to a boom town vice seekers paradise, to an endangered species haven. Some glamorous tours are still being advertised by organizers. Changing Faces of the Golden Triangle
Summary:Our return trip was basically the above in reverse. We made it a straight drive from Mong La to Mai Sai, an all day trip with having to stop again in Kyaing Tong and the other "transit control points". Few problems except for mass confusion at the Tachilek/Mai Sai border crossing as we gathered our passports and vehicle papers. Situation normal. The ladies at the travel office did say they were concerned about us as not too many try this trip alone anymore. Of course they didn't tell us that before we left. Would I do it again? Probably not. The trip was not as interesting as the story of Mong La which I learned after I arrived home. I don't feel we actually saw Burma. Most our contacts were with government officials and a decaying town that felt like we had crossed into China. The restrictions and lack of freedom was extremely annoying to me. I have seen many nonsensical policies and procedures in Asia, but this is the epitome of bureaucratic nonsense. The locals were generally friendly when approached. They were not outgoing and generally stared in amazement and seem afraid to approach. Not the friendliness one feels in Laos and Thailand. I have read reports of people traveling in other parts of Burma. They talk of the friendly people and some enjoyable visits. They of course are not traveling alone and are not traveling in the Shan territories. So what is the real Myanmar? Perhaps this was it.
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07/28/2009